“The eating process is to place the entire roasted bird in one’s mouth with just the beak protruding, and then slowly chew it for about 15 minutes. You are supposed to experience: first the rich taste of fat and brandy, then the bitterness of the bird’s guts, and finally the crunchy bones lacerating your gums and allowing the blood from your gums to add to the flavor. It is traditional to cover your head and face with a napkin when chewing on your ortolan. The napkin is used, depending on who you believe, either to keep the delicate aromas in, or to hide from God.”

Read full text here. Yeah, I know it’s Yahoo Answers, but it’s corroborated by wiki (for the most part).